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The following column appeared in the 3rd Quarter 2008 issue of Coastal Homes and Lifestyles. You’ll notice the lack of Sarah Palin references in this story. Unfortunately, her presence in the Great Gold Pan of political news didn’t flash until shortly after my trip.
Story and photos by Wayne Franklin.

The author acts like he's working for the camera. Photo by David Adams.
At least my latest lie has roots in truth. In creating a commercial for a state university, we are working from a true story of alumni “meeting cute” on a lake in the wilds of Alaska. Due to a modest budget, we choose to shoot on Lake Guntersville in northeast Alabama. Guntersville is a beautiful lake with miles of undeveloped shoreline. There’s only one problem: no matter how pristine, Alabama ain’t Alaska. Given their alphabetical proximity, I thought the two states would be more similar. After all Alabama and Arkansas look an awful lot alike, and Alaska’s even closer in the alphabet. It turns out that doesn’t guarantee topographic similarity. Who knew?
So we use Guntersville for our foreground action, seaplanes and talent. (“Talent” means actors in the biz, but my crew often remind me the real talent is behind the camera. Actors are just meat that talks.) After we wrap in Guntersville, director of photography David Adams and I load up the plane and move to Denali. Kenai, actually. Midnight sun. Moose and stars. This is when the lies really begin.
Lie #1: AIR TRAVEL IS COMFORTABLE
We board a small jet in Birmingham for the short hop to Houston. When I say small, I mean David and I look like Gandalf trying to navigate the Hobbit hole of Bilbo Baggins. In Houston, we board a larger plane for the trip to Anchorage. We’re seated near the back. When I say seated, I mean wedged into place using a shoehorn, a crowbar and a generous dollop of Crisco.
Lie #2: MEN OUTNUMBER WOMEN IN ALASKA FOUR-TO-ONE
Once fire crews extract us from the plane using the jaws of life, we make our way to car rental. The first thing we notice about Alaska is that everyone is female. My theory: the men of Alaska concocted the 4:1 story to encourage even more beautiful women to move to the Last Frontier —a shrewd move, and one that seems to be working. (Ladies, did I mention that Birmingham is overrun with fit, wealthy and charming men? You know, just FYI.)
Lie #3: ALASKA CAN’T BE THAT BEAUTIFUL
We head south on the Seward Highway toward Girdwood. This stretch of highway winds along the shores of the Turnagain Arm, so named by Captain Cook when navigating the mud flats at low tide. David, however, thinks I am saying “Tourniquet Arm.” I don’t correct him. It’s more fun that way. The scenery here — the bay, the rocky, snow-capped peaks — is simply stunning.
Lie #4: DON’T EXPECT TO SEE WILDLIFE FROM THE HIGHWAY
Given the purpose of this trip, I don’t expect to see much Alaskan fauna. A few minutes in, however, a bald eagle swoops low just in front of our car. This majestic bird brings to mind only one thing: Ben Franklin was an idiot for suggesting the turkey be named our national bird. Oh, look! There’s a mountain goat grazing by the side of the road! At this rate, I expect to see a polar bear in the lobby of our hotel.
Lie #5: YOU CAN’T STAY ANYPLACE NICE FOR ONLY $130
At this discounted rate, I don’t have high hopes for our hotel. We arrive at Alyeska Resort in Girdwood, and I realize that idiocy is a Franklin tradition. The place is swanky! Above the warm, wood-paneled lobby is a room-sized diorama of the surrounding Chugach Mountains. And perched above me on Styrofoam boulders … a polar bear! Sure, he’s been shot, stuffed and mounted, but I told you so.
Lie #6: YOU’LL GET ACCUSTOMED TO THE LONG DAYS
We dine at the Chair 5 Restaurant on native dishes like halibut fingers, elk burgers and Moose Drool beer. (OK, Moose Drool is actually from Montana, but I drink it every time I’m out
West … and you should too!) We head back to the Alyeska around 11pm, 45 minutes before sunset. Dotting the sidewalks are people out strolling, riding bikes and playing with their kids. It takes all my self-control not to shout at them, “Don’t you know what time it is!? Go to bed!”
Lie #7: I’M NOT THAT OUT OF SHAPE
Girdwood (all of Alaska, for that matter) is a paradise of outdoor activity, and it shows on the bodies of the people here. Suddenly, I wish I had brought more baggy sweatshirts.
Lie #8: THIS TRIP IS ALL ABOUT WORK
We can only shoot when it’s relatively sunny out. The cool, overcast weather the rest of the time allows us to do some sightseeing. The drive along Seward Highway only gets more beautiful beyond the “Tourniquet Arm.” It should be impossible to be nostalgic for a place and time in which you never lived, but in our media- saturated society, it isn’t. Winding through glacial valleys, surrounded by high mountains that burst forth lush and green at their bases, rising to white, snowy peaks, I feel as if I’m in an old postcard or one of those Disney nature films from the ‘50s. It’s both familiar and new, like a kiss from an old flame.
Seward is perfectly charming, complete with 1880s era main street and a modern harbor front lined with quaint little shops. We venture into one of the eateries, Chinooks Waterfront. The food is fine, but it’s hard to focus on anything but the view of the harbor and Resurrection
Bay beyond.
Lie #9: SCAT MAKES FOR GOOD DINNER CONVERSATION
We wrap the day with a short hike to the foot of Exit Glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park. I expected to see glaciers on this trip, but not to walk right up and touch one! What? Off-limits signs warning of ice fall? Never saw them. We haven’t seen as much wildlife today. The best we see on the trail is lots of scat from some large mammal. We barge into the Resurrection Roadhouse at closing time for dinner. Before we place our orders, I ask our server about the scat, describing it in fine detail. For some reason, David thinks this inappropriate. I offer to table the topic until a more apropos time … say, dessert?

Either of these guys could kill me... just for the halibut.
The harbor front is like a miniature version of that in Seward. We hit the Orca Café for a salmon burger and to escape the low-30s windchills. Sitting here, looking out over the Prince William Sound, it’s easy to forget the single creepiest place I’ve ever seen in my life. The Army built the Buckner Building as a “city in a building.” It was permanently abandoned after the Great Alaskan Earthquake of 1964. If no one has shot a Japanese-style horror film there yet, they should. But it won’t be me. I can’t even bring myself to take a picture of it. In Whittier, we see some of the crustiest, toughest fishermen you can imagine — all rubber boots and oilskin coats and scraggly gray walrus mustaches. In Seward, we had overheard young guys laughing about the glut of “surviving Alaska” reality shows on TV. Standing here, looking at these guys in the harsh weather of Whittier in June, I believe it really is tougher in Alaska.
Lie #11: CAJUN FOOD IN ALASKA MUST BE TERRIBLE.
It’s our final day in Alaska. We decide to grab one last local meal. We turn our noses up at a place called the Double Musky Inn. Their cuisine was described as Cajun. Two problems with that: 1. I want wild game, halibut, salmon and more halibut, and 2. I know good Cajun food, and it’s not in Alaska. We instead choose to bookend our trip with another tasty meal at Chair 5.
As we tool around Anchorage before our flight, locals keep asking if we tried the Double Musky. When I get home, I Google the place. Not only is it considered the finest restaurant in Alaska, but one of the best in the entire country! Oh, well. I guess I’ll have to eat there when I take the family to Alaska next summer, and I do intend to go back. That is no lie.
Writer’s note: I likely won’t make it back to Alaska this summer. Chalk that up as lie #12.
View this article as it originally appeared in Coastal Homes & Lifestyles.
In the latest installment of the Terminator franchise, one of the more effective scenes involves a character beginning to question exactly what he is: man or machine? It’s an oft-repeated theme in modern sci-fi films, from the stubborn denial and eventual morose resignation of the replicant Rachel in Blade Runner (and of Deckard in the director’s cut) to the revelation of the fabled “Final Five” cylons in the re-imagined Battlestar Galactica series. At times, our collective pop culture imagination revels in the possibilities of augmenting our humanity with technology, as it did in the classic 70s TV series The Six-Million Dollar Man and The Bionic Woman. At the opposite extreme is the dystopian view of The Matrix, wherein humanity is reduced to nothing more than a biological power plant. Whether we’re talking about genetically and biologically engineered machines or humans who have been enhanced with technological wonders, the line we fear to cross is the one where we become, as Ben Kenobi described Darth Vader in Star Wars, “more machine now than man; twisted and evil.”
For those who follow me on Twitter and Facebook, you know that in recent weeks, my family has been dealing with the sudden loss of my father-in-law. The last time I lost someone this close to me was when my grandfather passed away when I was a freshman in college. Our current situation only serves to remind me how much technology has changed our daily lives in the last 21 years.
Two decades ago, I spent a fall Saturday morning out with friends exploring a series of bluffs, overhangs and caverns in rural Tuscaloosa county. (The Tide must’ve been off that week or playing an away game. Otherwise, I would’ve been firmly planted amidst the throng in Bryant-Denny Stadium.) When I got back to my dorm, the phone rang almost immediately. It was my father. “Where have you been?” He didn’t sound irritated, but uncharacteristically broken. He told me my maternal grandfather had died that morning, and he was on his way to come get me. Although I had my own car, he didn’t want me to drive four hours on the old country roads of west Alabama while dealing with my grief.
Unlike today, he couldn’t reach me sooner, because none but the wealthy (or the faux riche) had cell phones. (I recall complaining to my then girlfriend about how everyone with phone in their car made sure to hold it with their left hand when talking — so everyone outside the car could see it.) My father’s call was typical of how everyone in the extended family learned of my grandfather’s death; through a daisy chain of phone calls from one family member to another. I’m sure that in the early 20th century, there were some old timers who found it sacrilege to share such painful and personal information via the “talking telegraph.” But until recently, attaching ourselves to an analog voice network was the best way to share any news — no matter how small — with a select audience.
When my wife’s father passed away, I hesitated briefly before posting about his death on both my Twitter and Facebook accounts. “Is this really appropriate?” I wondered. I knew there were some family members who would log onto Facebook, expecting to update everyone on which microwave lunch was on tap for that day, to look at their friends’ photo albums of yard weeds or to take a quiz that finally answers that burning question “which Major Dad character are you?” Instead, they would find themselves confronted by the dark specter of human mortality and the loss of a beloved family member.
The fact remains I can keep up with many of these same family members more easily through online means than via telephone. In fact, for most of them, I have neither telephone numbers nor e-mail addresses. So the question of appropriateness is moot when you realize the best way to spread news to our families and friends is in the cloud. I did try to reach a half-dozen of the closest family members via phone. I only got through to two. The others in that group learned the news from their siblings or children… who learned it from Facebook.
A New York Times article from 1960 is thought to be the first printed reference to the term cyborg. (That is, according to Wikipedia, that all-knowing and ever-so-reliable font of digital information.) The article states that…
“a cyborg is essentially a man-machine system in which the control mechanisms of the human portion are modified externally by drugs or regulatory devices so that the being can live in an environment different from the normal one. “
Based on that earliest definition, simply relying upon the internet to spread information, much in the same way early generations of man relied upon carrier pigeons or smoke signals, does not constitute a cyborg. But what happens when our emotional responses become inextricably entangled with technology? It’s exactly this type of “man-machine system” that inspired the writing of this post.
You see, since my father-in-law died, we’ve been through all of the usual funereal business that should’ve driven home the reality of his death. My wife went the funeral home to view her father’s body prior to him being prepped for the visitation. We saw him again at the visitation and the funeral. For some reason, though, those experiences weren’t sufficient to convince us, emotionally at least, of the reality of his death. (It should be noted that, as followers of Christ, we believed his body to be merely an empty vessel at that point and that his spirit had moved on. As to where his spirit went, I’ll save a theological discussion of the concepts of sleep, heaven and the New Earth for another day… when I understand them myself.) Though my wife could view his lifeless body many times and remain strong, she couldn’t bring herself to delete his contact info from her mobile phone. THAT made it too real for her.
Likewise, she admitted that the hardest aspect of his death for her to grasp was the impossibility of simply picking up the phone to call him. For me, the realities hit hard and fast every time I type something about his death. Needless to say, writing this has been difficult. We have also discussed some of the things we’ll miss most about him, including watching Alabama football games on TV with him and his annoying PC service calls to our house. No matter how many times we told him “if you were using a Mac, we could help you,” he kept trying. Salesmen. Gotta love their persistence.
The need to perceive reality through the lens of technological advances is not new in my life. As a professional director and amateur photographer, no family vacation, birthday party or holiday is fully “experienced” unless I view it through the literal lens of some form of camera. In fact, one of my methods of dealing with the grief of our recent loss has been to immerse myself in still photography (and then upload those photos into the cloud, of course.) The few times I have attempted to go “lensless” on a vacation, I felt as if the experience were somehow hollow and meaningless, more fleeting than vapor. Memory is certainly a factor in that perception. I literally can’t remember those moments as vividly if viewed au naturale. And it doesn’t matter if I review the photos later; it’s as if the simple act of using a camera to capture those moments embeds the memories more deeply. Review them over and over again, and they become indelible.
I have innumerable memories of my childhood prior to age four, but I realized sometime ago that many of those are not memories of the events themselves, but memories of watching home movies of those events on my dad’s old 8mm projector. There was a time when I could recall the phone numbers of all my friends and family right off the top of my head. These days, I can only remember a handful. Why should I? They’re all right there in my contacts list on the computer and my phone.
If our emotional responses and our memories become so completely interwoven with technology, does that constitute cyborg? Going back to the Times’ definition, the creation of a “man-machine system” isn’t enough. That system must exist to help the being “live in an environment different than the normal one.” Do our current technological addictions fit the bill? I’m not sure they help us to live in our physical environment any better. In fact, one could argue that, with type II diabetes and obesity on the rise, technological advances have only served to make us less suited to the physical world we inhabit. However, what we have created is a an alternate “environment” comprised entirely of information. That environment governs almost every aspect of our daily lives in developed nations, from the creation and acquisition of wealth to controlling the flow of our food supply. One shudders to think what might happen if all the doomsayers are right about Y2K. Oh, wait…
The movie site Slashfilm recently spurred an online discussion inspired by the lackluster performance of Terminator: Salvation regarding whether the conceit of man-versus-scary-machine is no longer scary. There are many interesting (and some puerile) opinions on both sides of the argument. Personally, I believe the question itself to be self-reflexive: the very conversation itself could never have taken place if not for extremely powerful computers instantaneously connecting users from around the world, creating a man-machine system as it were. We’re no longer scared of machines, because our relationship with them is growing increasingly symbiotic. Perhaps the half of the man-machine system we should fear most is man.
To wit, one final note: last year I was in the Birmingham airport headed who knows where. As I was passing through security I noticed a young man, probably no more than 25, who had been pulled aside by TSA agents for a more thorough screening. They weren’t searching his bags for tweezers or saline solution. They were asking him to remove his leg for a closer inspection. Based upon his age and appearance, I surmised that he had most likely lost his biological leg in war. The artificial leg was one of those really high tech, articulated jobs. Though he handled it with good humor, I was incensed. Here’s a kid who gave up a piece of his humanity ostensibly to protect our country against terrorism, and the bureaucratic drones of the TSA were treating him as if he were a terrorist himself. (These are the same geniuses who totally missed a Gerber multi-tool I had left in my camera bag a few months earlier.) So I ask you, who was more machine: the forgiving young man with the robotic leg, or the security worker who blindly followed protocol (programming) without using any wisdom or discretion?
From the Library of Congress Flickr page: “‘Migrant Mother’ is part of a landmark photo documentary project based in the U.S. Resettlement Administration, the Farm Security Administration (FSA), and later the Office of War Information (OWI). The most active years were 1935-1943, and the collection was transferred to the Library of Congress in 1944.”